Celty’s Helmet V2

Toadvine writes:

I learned a great deal from building Celty Sturlson’s helmet from Durarara. So much so, in fact, that by the time I finished, I realized I could do so much better given a second go at it. This summer, I started on that second go. Picking up another helmet from the same second-hand shop as the first, I stripped it down and set to work.

The goal this time around is to make the helmet out of the best materials for the job, then cast it and make plastic copies from the mold, giving me a light, strong, hollow shell to work with. Toward this end, I selected a visor face shield I could easily buy mounting hardware for. After stripping the helmet, I cut the opening to match the new face shield I planned to attach. I also filled in some Apoxie Sculpt in areas where the starting helmet had undesirable low spots.

In order to get a smoother seam between the ear and helmet than I did the first time around, I cut holes in the top of the helmet and attached cardboard supports from the inside instead of the outside. These supports were coated in a thin layer of Apoxie Sculpt, giving me a very thin, very strong base.

From there, it’s been a matter of building up the shape with Paperclay, refining details with Apoxie Sculpt, filling gaps with Bondo, and a whole helluva lot of sanding. Once the shape is perfect, I’ll move on to silicone for the mold.

I discovered some annoying asymmetry in the ears and set about to correct it with a great deal of power sanding and a bit of new material. I built up the left ear to match the right with Apoxie Sculpt. I didn’t bother to smooth it completely because once it sets, it’ll be joined by some Bondo. A world of Bondo and sandpaper later, the asymmetry problems are largely resolved.

While filling and smoothing all the pits and gaps, I filed the insides of the ears down to be sharp and even.

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I marked and drilled the holes for the Icon Pro Shield Pivot Kit and then did a test fit of the pivot brackets and the Icon Proshield face shield. The excessively-protected face shield.

I drilled and filed the vents in the back of the ears to get them squared up. I added some Apoxie Sculpt to get the dimensions and angle even, then scribed the seam around the holes with a dental pick and a knife-shaped file.

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I glued an old face shield from V1 of the helmet to the inside of the hole in the front to block it off for making the mold. I blocked the ear holes at a depth of 1cm with sheet styrene. I filled in gaps around my blocking with Apoxie Sculpt and sanded it down. I hit it with a quick blast of primer so I could see more clearly where I still needed to sand.

I blocked off the back vents too, using sheet styrene to build up an edge detail inside the hole.

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With more patching and sanding, I finally reached a point I was willing to call “done” and move on to priming and polishing for the mold.

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TO BE CONTINUED

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